Eighteen jobs. Eighteen proper descriptions.

Pendants, downlights, chandeliers and wall lights — designed in layers, not just wired in.

Most of Steve's photographs are lighting, and it shows. Rooflight perimeters with pendant clusters hung down the stairwell, a glass-rod linear pendant over a kitchen island, a tiered chandelier over a landing, lantern pendants in a double-height room. The trick is layers: a working light over the worktop, a softer layer for the evening, and switching that puts each layer where your hand actually goes. Wall lights before the plasterer arrives are a Steve speciality — one reviewer had him out at short notice over a weekend to do exactly that.

LED downlights, strip and tape — fitted so you can't see the source, only the light.

Swapping halogen for LED is the cheapest way to knock a chunk off a lighting bill, but it's the detailing that makes it look deliberate: strip tucked under a wall unit so the worktop glows and the fitting disappears, tape behind a mirror, downlights set out on a grid that matches the room rather than the joists. Dimmable drivers matched to the fitting, so nothing flickers or buzzes.

Paths, patios, soffits and planting lit properly — and wired to survive a British winter.

Outdoor lighting is half design, half weatherproofing. Steve runs armoured cable to the right depth, uses IP-rated fittings and glands that actually seal, and puts the switching somewhere sensible. Done well you get warm pools of light down a path and up a facade rather than one floodlight blinding the neighbours — see the dusk shot of a new build with its soffit and garden lighting on in the gallery.

PIR floodlights and dusk-till-dawn fittings, aimed and timed so they only trigger when they should.

A security light that comes on every time a cat walks past gets switched off within a month. Steve sets the sensitivity, the timer and the aim so it lights the drive and the side gate and ignores the pavement, and wires it back to its own way on the board so it can be isolated without killing the outside sockets.

App and voice-controlled lighting, with wall switches that still work for everyone else.

Smart lighting is brilliant until the wi-fi drops and nobody in the house can turn the kitchen on. Steve fits smart dimmers and drivers that keep a physical switch doing the obvious thing, sets up scenes for the layers you actually use, and keeps the neutral and wiring arrangement right for the module rather than bodging it behind the plate.

New sockets, spurs and circuits — doubles where you've been living off an extension lead.

Additional sockets, relocated sockets, new radial and ring circuits, USB and USB-C outlets by the bed and the sofa, and floor boxes where the furniture actually sits. One reviewer had five non-functioning sockets replaced in a single visit: "Polite, efficient and friendly." Cables get run properly in safe zones, not diagonally across a wall for someone to drill through later.

Outdoor sockets, garden and garage supplies run in armoured cable.

Power to the shed, the garage, the home office at the bottom of the garden, the hot tub, the Christmas lights. Armoured cable to the right depth with warning tape over it, an RCD-protected way on the board, IP-rated outdoor sockets with proper lids, and a small sub-board at the far end if the outbuilding needs more than one circuit.

Ovens, hobs, induction, extractors and integrated appliances wired and connected.

Kitchen appliances are where fitters and electricians meet: an induction hob that needs its own dedicated circuit, an oven on a cooker switch rather than a plug behind a unit, a dishwasher and washing machine on switched fused connection units you can reach. Steve wires the cooker and appliance circuits correctly for the load rather than daisy-chaining everything off one spur.

Bathroom and kitchen extraction, wired and zoned correctly for a wet room.

Condensation and black mould around a bathroom window are usually an extraction problem, not a damp problem. Steve fits inline and axial fans with timers and humidity sensors, ducts them to outside rather than into a loft void, and keeps the fitting and the wiring correct for the bathroom zone it sits in. Same for cooker hoods and utility rooms.

Whole-house re-wires for properties whose wiring was installed for a different century.

A full re-wire is the big one — new cabling throughout, more circuits, more sockets where you actually need them, a new consumer unit at the heart of it and the whole lot tested and certificated at the end. Steve works room by room where he can so the house stays liveable, drops dust sheets before he starts and makes chases good rather than leaving them for your plasterer. It's the job at the far end of "no job too small", and it's the one worth getting a proper look and a written quote for.

Old fuse boards swapped for modern consumer units — and every way labelled properly.

If your board is a rewireable fuse box, or a plastic unit with one RCD covering the whole house, an upgrade is the single biggest safety improvement most homes can make. Steve replaces the board, sorts the earthing and main bonding at the same time — the bit that quietly gets skipped — and labels every way so the next person to open the cupboard knows what's what. Notifiable work, so it gets certificated on completion.

Something keeps tripping and nobody can tell you why. This is that job.

Fault finding is detective work: isolating circuits, testing insulation resistance, tracking down the appliance, the buried nail or the water ingress that's tripping your RCD. It's also where a one-man band earns its keep — Steve turns up, works through it methodically, and tells you what he found. One reviewer put it best: "I have used Stephen on many occasions for a number of electrical issues outside and inside of our property. He has solved them with efficiency, speed and great care."

Mains-wired, interlinked smoke and heat alarms — the ones that wake the whole house.

A battery alarm on a landing ceiling protects the landing. An interlinked mains-wired system with battery back-up protects everyone, because when the kitchen heat alarm goes off the one outside the bedrooms sounds too. Steve installs and interlinks smoke, heat and CO detection to suit the layout of the house, and it's the upgrade landlords and anyone with a loft conversion should be asking about first.

First fix and second fix on new builds and extensions, worked around the other trades.

New builds and extensions mean being on site at the right moment: cabling and back boxes in at first fix before the plasterboard, then accessories, fittings and the board at second fix. Several of the photographs in the gallery are Steve's new-build work mid-project — a vaulted kitchen with the linear pendant already hung while the island is still sheeted up, and the same house at dusk with its external lighting on. Working to the programme matters as much as the wiring.

Cat6 data points, TV aerial and satellite runs, and cabling for cameras.

Wi-fi is fine until you want the office or the TV to be reliable. Steve runs Cat6 to the rooms that need it, terminates it properly at both ends into patch panels and modules rather than leaving a coil behind the skirting, and pulls coax for TV and satellite at the same time. One reviewer had "new cabling for internet and for security cameras" run and described the work as "extremely tidy, diligent, safe".

Video doorbells hard-wired to a proper supply instead of run off a battery.

Battery video doorbells are fine right up until the battery dies on the week you're away. Steve wires video doorbells to a transformer and a permanent supply so they stay online, gets them mounted at a height that actually frames a face, and sorts the chime side of it indoors.

The small stuff. Genuinely — right down to a lightbulb change.

Cracked socket fronts, a pull cord that's gone, a light fitting that needs taking down before decorating, a dead outside light, a bulb in a fitting you can't safely reach. This is the promise from Steve's own site taken at face value: no job is too small, whether it's a lightbulb change or a full re-wire. Worth batching a few up into one visit.

Quotes and advice cost nothing — including the advice that you don't need the big job.

Free quotes and advice, in Steve's own words. Ring, message or email with what's going on and you'll get a straight answer: whether it's a quick fix, whether it needs a proper look, and roughly what's involved. For anything substantial he'd rather come and see it than guess down the phone, because a quote based on a guess is how people end up with surprises.